Smoky Hill River

Smoky Hill River & Monument Rocks in Gove County, Kansas by Kathy Weiser-Alexander.

Smoky Hill River & Monument Rocks in Gove County, Kansas by Kathy Weiser-Alexander.

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The Smoky Hill River is a 575-mile waterway that runs through Colorado and Kansas that is filled with the lore and legends of Native Americans, explorers, and stagecoach travelers.

The Indians supposed this stream to be the Kansas River, and by some of the early historians, it was also considered as such.

The earliest known reference to the river was on a 1732 map by French cartographer Jean Baptiste Bourguignon d’Anville who called it the “River of the Padoucas”. More than 20 years later, a 1758 map referred to it as the “Padoucas River”. American explorer Zebulon Pike, during his expedition to visit a Pawnee village came upon the river in September 1806 and called it the main south branch of the Kansas River. Pike also mentioned that the river was navigable in times of flood, but there is no record of its having been navigated other than by the steamboat Excel for one trip in 1854, and by the Gus Linn in 1859, the latter taking a whole day for a round trip between Fort Riley and Junction City. When the river was officially named, it was called such for the hills near Abilene and Lindsborg that were surrounded by isolated buttes that often appeared to be surrounded by hazy smoke. Both the river and the hills soon became known as the Smoky Hills.

Northwest Kansas River Map

Northwest Kansas River Map

When the Pike’s Peak Gold Rush began in Colorado in 1858, an old Indian trail along the river provided the shortest, fastest route west across Kansas. This soon became known as the Smoky Hill Trail. Beginning in 1865, the trail served as the route for the short-lived Butterfield Overland Despatch. To protect travelers, the U.S. Army established several forts along the trail, including Fort Downer, Fort Harker, Fort Hays, Fort Fort Monument, and Fort Wallace. The Kansas Pacific Railroad was completed in 1870, rendering the Smoky Hill Trail obsolete.

The Smoky Hill River has two main branches, both of which rise in Colorado. The north fork enters Kansas near the southwest corner of Sherman County, flows about 25 miles to the east, then makes a turn to the southeast, cutting across the extreme northeast corner of Wallace into Logan County. The south fork is formed by two branches which rise in Kit Carson and Cheyenne Counties, of Colorado, about 40 from the Kansas line. This branch flows in a general easterly direction, enters Kansas about the center of the west line of Wallace County and flows almost due east through that county to unite with the north branch at a point about six miles west of Russell Spring. The course of the main stream from this point is almost due east through the counties of Logan, Gove, Trego, Ellis, Russell and into Ellsworth, where it bears to the southeast, making a turn and entering McPherson County. The river here makes a sharp curve to the north and enters Saline County, flowing as far north as the town of Salina and deviating slightly to the northeast, passing through Dickinson and Geary Counties, where it unites with the Republican River to form the Kansas River.

Cattle at Smoky Hill River near Ellsworth, Kansas by Alexander Gardner, 1867.

Cattle at Smoky Hill River near Ellsworth, Kansas by Alexander Gardner, 1867. Vintage photo restored by Kathy Weiser-Alexander.

In 1948, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers finished the construction of a dam on the Smoky Hill River for flood control in southeastern Ellsworth County creating Kanopolis Lake. In 1951, the United States Bureau of Reclamation completed another dam on the river, for both flood control as well as for irrigation. This dam created Cedar Bluff Reservoir in southeastern Trego County.

Compiled by Kathy Weiser-Alexander, updated August 2020.

Also See:

Kansas Destinations

Kansas Lakes & Rivers

Kansas Photo Galleries

Smoky Hill Trail

 

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