Decatur County, Kansas

Beaver Creek and Long Branch Creek cross the county in the North, Sappa Creek in the middle, and Prairie Dog Creek and the South Fork of the Solomon River in the South. Sappa Creek has two forks, North and South, and Prairie Dog’s principal branch is Tom Cat.

The surface is generally undulating prairie, breaking into bluffs along the streams. Beaver Creek waters the northern part; Sappa Creek waters the central part; and Prairie Dog Creek and the North Fork of the Solomon River water the southern part, all flowing in a northeasterly direction. The belts of timber along the streams are narrow, with less than 5% of the entire area wooded. Ash, white elm, box-elder, hackberry, and cottonwood are the most common varieties. Fine limestone is found in the bluffs along the creeks, and good building stone is found throughout the county. Clay suitable for manufacturing brick and tile is abundant.

Decatur County was surveyed in 1872, and its first settlers arrived. Among these early settlers were Colonel J.A. Hopkins, who came in September 1872 and, in December, located a claim, the land having been surveyed the previous summer. In January 1873, D. Coburn, S.M. Porter, John Griffith, Henry M. Playford, and a few others came about the time the county was created.

Decatur County was established by an act of the state Legislature on March 20, 1873, and was named in honor of Commodore Stephen Decatur, Jr., in the United States Navy, who served during both Barbary Wars in North Africa, the Quasi-War with France, and the War of 1812 with Britain.

When the first settlers arrived, roads had not yet been opened; pioneer residences were dugouts, sod houses, or log cabins of the most primitive type; markets were far distant, and the trusty rifle had to be relied upon to furnish food for the family. Fortunately, the game was plentiful. Buffalo hunts were common and seldom failed to supply meat. The country also abounded in antelope, jack rabbits, and wild turkey, with an occasional elk or deer. But the hardships of frontier life, and the loss of crops to drought and grasshoppers, caused many early settlers to abandon their claims and turn eastward.

The first post office in the county was established in Oberlin, then called Sappa, and J.A. Rodehaver was appointed postmaster in April 1874.

In the summer of 1874, R.L. Booth killed Frank Adams for insulting his wife – the first death by violence in the county.

The grasshopper invasion in 1875 caused severe hardships, as the hoppers destroyed all the growing crops, completely taking a narrow strip North and South through the county.

In the fall of 1875, George Worthington taught the first school in what is now Oberlin Township, near the present county seat.

In the summer of 1876, several people in Oberlin had an epidemic of typhoid-malaria fever, which caused a great deal of suffering, but no one died of the fever.

The Sappa Creek Valley in Decatur County was the scene of the last Indian raid in Kansas in September 1878. At that time, a band of Northern Cheyenne invaded Kansas. Crossing the State line near the Southeast corner of Comanche County around September 14, they divided into small bands. They attacked the camps of stockmen along their route across and into Barber, Comanche, Clark, Meade, Ford, and Gray Counties, killing some, wounding others, and destroying and stealing stock and other property. After crossing the Arkansas River near Cimarron, in Gray County, they passed almost due North, doing but little damage until they reached Sheridan, Decatur, and Rawlins Counties, where they committed most foul and brutal atrocities.

During the Northern Cheyenne Exodus after the Battle of Punished Woman’s Fork in Scott County, Kansas, a band of Cheyenne needing horses and provisions raged through the valley, killing more than 30 civilians and raping several women. Several elderly Cheyenne women and children were also killed in the region by soldiers and civilians. In Oberlin, the Decatur County Last Indian Raid Museum commemorates the Cheyenne Raid.

During the raid, on September 30, Mr. H.D. Colvin, living eight miles Southwest of Oberlin on the South Fork of Sappa Creek, was away from his dwelling a few rods when an advance party of raiding Indians suddenly surprised him and drove him to his house. When the main group arrived, they attacked the house, but Mr. Colvin and his brave wife drove off the 200 or more with an old Navy six-shooter and an equally antiquated shotgun. Mrs. Colvin fired the first shot at the Indians with the shotgun. They left, doing no damage.

After the Indian scare had abated, other settlers began to come into Decatur County.

The county’s first newspaper was the Oberlin Herald, established on June 12, 1879, by Humphrey & Counter.

J.P. Rouse, who came to the Prairie Dog Creek in 1879, freighted supplies from both Kirwin and Buffalo Park. On his way over, he would pick up Buffalo bones to sell, as there were “bone buyers” at these railroad stations.

On August 23, 1879, H.D. Colvin performed the duties of Superintendent of Public Instruction, organizing school district No. 1, six miles square, with Oberlin in the center. School district officers were elected on September 3, and J. B. Hitchcock was elected director, R.A. Marks, clerk, and George Penson, treasurer.

By the close of 1879, the county’s population exceeded 1,500, the number required by law for county organization. A petition by 250 householders was presented to Governor St. John, who, on December 11, 1879, issued his proclamation declaring the county organized. The governor appointed Frank Kimball, John B. Hitchcock, and George W. Shoemaker as commissioners, E.D. Stillson as county clerk, and designated Oberlin as the temporary county seat. At their first meeting on December 15, 1879, the commissioners divided the county into six townships: Grant, Beaver, Bassetville, Oberlin, Prairie Dog, and Jennings; defined the boundaries of each; and designated voting places.

The commissioners scheduled an election for county and township officers for February 3, 1880. At that election the following officers were elected: Commissioners, Henry Claar, H.C. Johnson and Frank Kimball; representative, M.A. Conklin; county clerk, N.G. Addleman; clerk of the district court, W.A. Colvin; treasurer, George Metcalf; sheriff, W.A. Frasier; county attorney, F.M. Bowman; probate judge, Luther Brown; register of deeds, George W. Keys; superintendent of schools, D.W. Burt; surveyor, S.L. Bishop; surveyor, Dr. — Street. At the same time, the assembly voted on a permanent county seat, with Oberlin winning over all competitors by a majority of 181 votes, and officers were elected in each of the several townships.

By 1880, buffalo meat cost just 7¢ per pound. As the population increased, hunters pushed further West to follow the dwindling herds. This opened up a new industry; collecting buffalo bones for fertilizer provided many settlers with income during tough drought years. In 1880, teams transported bones to the railroad daily and sold them for $8.00 per ton.

A wagon carried two sets of sideboards and was filled with food for the men and boys, as well as grain for the team. One man or two boys typically accompanied each wagon. Gathering a load usually took three days, followed by an additional three days to travel to the market and back home. As time went on, it became increasingly difficult to find a good load, with searchers venturing farther and farther West until buffalo bones for the market became a thing of the past.

As the buffalo population declined, the range, once lush with buffalo grass, became available for other uses. Ranches began to emerge throughout the county, particularly near streams and spring draws. Texas cattlemen controlled large tracts of range land for Winter grazing and as stopping points while moving their herds northward. Many of these ranchers supplied the government with meat for Indian reservations. As settlers arrived, ranchers relocated further West. The settlers strongly opposed the movement of large Texas herds through the county, as the herds damaged their small plots of grain and feed. The first trail crossing the county was located near Norcatur, but by 1878, it had shifted nine miles West of Oberlin. Each season, over 300,000 cattle made their way along this trail, most of which were driven to Ogallala, Nebraska, to be shipped via the Union Pacific Railroad.

At the time, the county had 30 organized school districts. With 504 school-age people, enrollment was 308, and average daily attendance was 179. It had 15 log and sod schoolhouses, valued at $666, and furniture valued at $73.

The Board of County Commissioners passed a resolution on April 9, 1880, known as the “Herd Law”, prohibiting all meat cattle, horses, mules, asses, swine, and sheep from running at large. Decatur was in the early stages of the frontier. Cattlemen were giving way to the agriculturist.

A four-week session of the County Normal Institute was held commencing July 12, 1880, with D.W. Burt, conductor; Sue Kereff and R.C. Lindig, Instructors. The whole number of teachers in attendance was 15; the amount received from examination fees was $26; the amount paid for instruction was $8. The institute was established in 1883.

By that time, Oberlin was the only town in Decatur County that had attained any importance, and it was a mere hamlet compared to many other county seats in Kansas. It lay on Sappa Creek, nearly at the center of the county. Clayton, the next town in size after Oberlin, lay on the line between Decatur and Norton Counties. It had two general stores, a drug store, a post office, and a hotel.

On March 8, 1881, Rawlins and Cheyenne Counties were attached to Decatur County for judicial purposes.

Over time, organizations were formed to oppose the crossing of herds. A meeting was called for Saturday, April 30, 1881, to organize to prevent Texas cattle from passing through the county that season. Gove and Sheridan Counties were doing the same. A general meeting was held at Kenneth in Sheridan County, Saturday, May 7, 1881. By the summer of 1884, the herd trails had been pushed as far West as Wallace, only a few miles East of the Colorado line. Wild horses roamed the prairies in the early days, and as the settlers came in, a lucrative trade of catching and selling them sprang up. They could be captured by following them until they were worn down from the lack of food and water. In this condition, they could be driven into corrals. They shipped them to eastern markets and sold them for $15 to $25 per head. As land was broken and fences built, they drove the wild horses out. Sheep, cattle, horses, and hogs were plentiful and easy to care for. All the early, as well as later, settlers who made it a business to keep plenty of stock around them have made good, though, as early as 1880, it was evident that stock raising by use of free range was over. Agriculture was taking a prominent part in the industries of the county.

Over time, organizations were established to oppose the movement of cattle herds. A meeting was scheduled for Saturday, April 30, 1881, to organize efforts to prevent Texas cattle from passing through the county that season. Gove and Sheridan Counties were taking similar actions. A general meeting was held in Kenneth, Sheridan County, on Saturday, May 7, 1881.

Nathan Haynes received, on January 1, 1882, a patent to the South half of Section 2, Town 2, Range 29. It was the first ever issued to the school land in Decatur County. In March 1882, Henry Inman selected 2,320 acres of land in this county as part of the additional school lands to which the State was entitled from the general government.

In 1882, the county had 38 organized school districts. The average monthly salary for male teachers was $20.41; for female teachers, $18.18. At that time, there were 17 school buildings of an aggregate value of $1,700. The school tax levy for 1882 was 11 mills. The amount of money received in 1882 for school purposes was $2,357.77.

The “Frontier Mill,” with McKay and Jenkins as proprietors, was erected during the summer of 1882 at Cedar Bluffs in the northwestern part of the county. The first flour manufactured in the county was ground at these mills on December 18, 1882, and put on the market in Oberlin, Kansas, at John Morrison’s store.

The Independent Volunteer Cavalry Company (State Militia) of Oberlin was organized on December 12, 1882. The company numbered 30, with L.G. Parker as First Lieutenant.

By the early 1880s, Decatur County had 13 church organizations. Methodist, seven; Presbyterian, two; Baptist, three; Baptist (Free Will), one. There were 15 Union and one Baptist Sunday schools.

The Legislature of 1883 detached Rawlins and Cheyenne Counties from Decatur, provided for court terms in Rawlins County in May and November, and attached Cheyenne County for judicial purposes.

On February 14, 1883, the Board rented the Moody and Burnett buildings from R.A. Marks for $200 per year. The Legislature of 1883 passed an act to enable the County Commissioners of Decatur County to fund the county’s indebtedness, authorizing them to issue the bonds of the county in an amount not exceeding $15,000 to be used for the redemption of the outstanding orders, allowed accounts, and warrants, and to pay off any judgment against the county.

By the summer of 1884, herd trails had extended as far West as Wallace, just a few miles East of the Colorado border. In the early days, wild horses roamed the prairies, and as settlers arrived, a lucrative trade developed in capturing and selling them. These horses could be captured by tracking them until they became exhausted from lack of food and water. Once weakened, they could be driven into corrals and shipped to eastern markets, where they sold for $15 to $25 each.

As settlers cultivated the land and erected fences, they pushed out wild horses. Sheep, cattle, horses, and hogs became abundant and relatively easy to care for. Many early settlers, as well as those who arrived later and focused on maintaining a sizable livestock population, found success. However, by 1880, free-range stock raising was clearly coming to an end, and agriculture was beginning to play a significant role in the county’s economy.

On March 8, 1887, Governor Alexander Martin approved an act of the Legislature authorizing the commissioners of Decatur County to levy a tax of two mills on the dollar for the erection of a courthouse.

Decatur County’s population peaked in 1900 at 9,234.

By the act of March 4, 1903, the county commissioners were authorized to establish a county high school on receipt of a petition signed by a majority of the electors. A petition was filed, and the school was established at Oberlin, the county seat.

By the act of March 8, 1907, the commissioners were authorized to purchase a site and erect a courthouse, the cost of which was not to exceed $50,000, and to levy a tax of not more than three mills on the dollar to pay for the same.

The educational opportunities were good. In 1909, the county had 101 organized school districts and a school population of 3,294. The estimated value of school property in that year was over $124,000.

At the time, six weekly newspapers were published in the county—three in Oberlin and one each in Dresden, Jennings, and Norcatur.

Decatur County had three railroads. The Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railroad crossed the Southeast corner; a line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad crossed the northwest corner, following closely the course of Beaver Creek, and a branch of the same system ran eastward from Oberlin. These three roads provided the county with over 56 miles of main track and offered fairly good transportation facilities.

In 1910, the county’s population was 8,976; the value of taxable property was $12,659,175; the value of field crops was $1,162,021; and the value of all farm products was $1,682,032. The five leading crops, in the order of value, were: Wheat, $397,421; corn, $255,980; hay, $209,427; Kafir-corn, $73,308; barley, $66,104.

In 1894, when the Bank of Oberlin closed due to the Panic of 1893, Decatur County acquired the building as part of a settlement following the bank’s failure and used it as its first permanent courthouse. The  28-by-60-foot, two-story red-brick building was constructed in 1886. Its brick walls include corbelling and herringbone panels beneath each window and feature pressed-tin arches, stringcourses, cornices, and pediments. It continued to be utilized as a courthouse until 1927. Located at 187 S. Penn, the building was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1994. The building is now the Landmark Inn.

A new Classical Revival courthouse was built between 1926 and 1927. Designed by Squires & Ross, Cork & Ferrier built it. The building faces South and is a three-story structure of dark red brick, stone, and concrete. The building is located on landscaped grounds in the center of Oberlin. Along the South are six large columns rising from the second to the third story. The entrance has a stone-framed door. The first story has horizontal stone. Inside, the courtroom is in the northeast corner of the third story. The building houses the County District. It is located at 120 East Hall Street and North Griffith Street. The 17th Judicial District includes Graham County, Norton County, Osborne County, Phillips County, and Smith County.

Oberlin USD 294 serves Decatur County, a public unified school district headquartered in Oberlin, Kansas. It includes the communities of Oberlin, Norcatur, Dresden, Jennings, Clayton, Cedar Bluffs, and nearby rural areas. The school district operates the Decatur Community Junior-Senior High School and the Oberlin Elementary School.